Because the materials are limited to this specific region, a single horse yields much less material than a cow. I just buff them to a mirror shine with a section of tights (pantyhose) over the horse brush. Any thoughts? Although not a number 8, I really like those cordovan Vass. Theyre also a bit smaller in the waist, but thats a fit thing, not a style one, 2. Too much product becomes sticky and attracts dust and dirt. When you said you wear 8.5E on EG all lasts, I presume you refer to just loafers such as 184 last or including oxford and derby lasts say 202 or 606 last? And if that doesnt work, try a little cream. Of course, there is also the much broader point that killing animals to use their meat or skin doesnt mean you dont respect them. The cost is warranted considering the factors surrounding its production. I recommend doing it after every wear, if you can. I was a bit disapointed by the colour of the burgundy Aldens that I received recently. Is it in general or specifically their cordovan? A jean with a leg that slim looks silly with a normal Alden loafer on the bottom. Truly, the two best things you can do for your shell footwear, is to brush it regularly, and store it with shoe trees between wears. Posted by LS. Hi, You can also get rid of small scratches and scuffs by brushing your shell briskly with a stiff brush (short horse hair or boars hair brush) and assist this process with a light layer of cream or conditioner. This was not easy, and required a trip to the Madison Avenue store in New York. Great read and nice pictures as always. And your pair look totally dark, so dark that I find it difficult to believe it is a No.8. If you want to polish your Cordovan . Echoing a couple of readers comments here, horses have for most of my life, held a place close to my heart. Another model you might want to try is the monk strap. Youre just more likely to remember to do it after youve worn them. How often should I engage in shell cordovan care? But I prefer the styles from Alden. Notice the lightening of the leather and . If anything, Id say that Carmina is more cleanly made. If so, could you provide more details? And thanks on the vintages, I didnt realise that. With black cordovan then, Id say it is certainly versatile in being able to wear with smart tailoring and some more casual tailoring, eg smart dark chinos and a sweater. Finally, even scratches and nicks can be rubbed out to an extent, with the help of a deer bone (shown above, at Ludwig Reiter). They were never even close to being as dark as yours, rather a true burgundy. While other leathers may over-stretch with time, shell cordovan keeps its shape much better, resulting in a better long-term fit. Heinrich Dinkelacker's Cordovan Highlights. and here comes how people doing your job can leverage meaningful portion of business for certain sectorsin this case the clothing industry. Not only can it become uncomfortable, Ive read about people who have had insoles cracking rather quickly due to the bad breathability of the cordovan shoes and their perspiration breaking down the insole leather. Id love a new highly versatile boot at around this formality that could last over a decade. The 9.5 feels very comfy from the start. I bought the Alden Plain Toe Blucher in Colour 8 at the San Francisco Alden in 2016, and returned to the same shop for the Black version in 2017. Not really to be honest Mike. Do you mind telling if you have same size on Alden shoes on Barrie and Van last and are they the same width? Or at the very least, for the first day or two after wear. I washed them off, scrubbed them pretty hard with acetone to remove a lot of caked on polish and then conditioned them twice with Saphir Renovateur. Alden (same as yours) or Carmina? It is definitely a breakdown of the surface. It was a long, sunny period and I didnt look at them again for a few weeks until we had some unexpected rain. Thanks. I guess the cordovan loafer are some day an add on, but for now not what I would wear daily. RO! Loafers in France are usually either elongated in the Italian style, or chunky (boxy ?) They have a similar effect to horse or boars hair brushes, but with more direct pressure, that helps with pushing against the dense tissue of shell cordovan. It's tough to break in. Shoesofstefan at Instagram. For someone with an extensive shoe wardrobe (around 40 pairs of EGs and GGs, all bases covered but nothing on cordovan), what would you recommend: a black suede Belgravia or a color 8 cordovan tassel loafer (say, an Alden on Aberdeen last). It takes a lot to beat up shell cordovan. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon. A very elegant and distinctive casual shoe. Cordovan can feel heavy, certainly. Look for rips/tears in the shell itself. ), sole materials and thicknesses, welts, and so on. Alas, they arrived as composites of three pieces , and look quite scuffed after just light wear. Is this ill advised for a first loafer? For that approach, a neutral cream offers the same protection and conditioning benefits of a colored cream, but without any additional pigmentation. Ah, I see. Can a cordovan upper really add 500 to a boot and be worth it? Its almost like youre wearing down and moulding the surface. Im not sure how it works out with cordovan, but its rare that leather like this can sustain farming of animals on its own. They are rugged very low key for Santoni, with treble leather soles and Norwegian welts, and abosolutely bomb proof.Kitzbuhel is an interesting place for clothes shopping, with hand made shoes from Haderer, tailoring from Prader, and Fraunschuh, who manufacture locally, and curate some lovely Italian clothes. Is this correct? If my shoe size is UK 8.5 and most of my trousers leg openings are 18.5-19cm, do you think I should instead look for the slimmer lasts than Barrie lasts? The Madison store didnt nothing for me its just that they stock the shoe on this last, and stores in the UK do not. Only when there is a deeper scratch I apply some Saphir Renovateur on the spot (which with buffing gets applied over the whole shoe then). And why specifically deer bone? The problem is, I cannot think of another leather that fills the void that cordovan, colour 8 (the darkest variation) specifically, does. Ive walked around Canada, the US, the UK (even some hills in the Lake District), France and Switzerland in these shoes. I also do like tassel loafers, but find them a bit hard to wear without appearing somewhat affected (they are a bit unusual and sadly often worn by a certain type of fashion-guy, at least were I am from). Coming up on the PS Shop this Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain. Any idea if that actually works? Splashes can produce white marks (welts) but the treatments above deal with these. How do I get rid of scratches and scuffs? I dont have any from Crocketts, but did have a pair from Edward Green (mentioned above). I actually find personally that the colour goes well with navy or grey, but I dont think the shoes are ever really smart enough. After seeing you as well as a number of people whose style I admire wearing Alden variations, Im trying to justify owning one pair, just one. 8 by any chance? It benefits hugely from brushing, and from buffing (rubbing). I havent tried them in person, so its hard to say. Compared to other leather shoes Ive owned (a pair of Wolverine 1000 Mile shoes in brown Chromexcel leather, another pair of Alden penny loafers in snuff suede, a pair of Herms calfskin leather boots, among others), breaking in this pair of loafers was difficult. Meaning it might never be available. I also have Kirby Allisons cordovan care kit (complete with deer bone) which comes in handy to smooth the ripples a bit. I receive comments/compliments on these shoes (far more than others), typically from older gentlemen who tell me they have a similar pair and have worn it for decades. I havent found any to be perfect to be honest, but these from Skolyx are probably the best, particularly if you cut them down (they are quite big) if needed. That Saphir Jucacuir is probably good for color matching, and maybe only for more porous leather. Picture: Alden of San Diego. Hate cramped toes. You just brush or wipe it off. Most Eye-Catching Cordovan: Heinrich Dinkelacker. I am glad you have become a convert to shell cordovan, Simon. last year (shown below). I often get asked "how do I remove the water spots/welts from my shoes from the rain?" (I do brush them from time to time.). I have had a pair of Alden loafers in colour 8 (which you rarely ever see in the wild where I live but feel hopelessly unoriginal after reading this article and the comments) for years and all I needed to do as you say is the occasional brush or rub down with a piece of cloth and keep them on shoe trees. That last is only more comfortable on most people because it is larger and so more forgiving. Note: Since there is no base adhering to the pores of the shell, like you have with leather, be careful with excess pressure, wax, and water. Indeed, some readers thought they were black, when they saw, The colour is particularly appealing too. But it is also absolutely unique - the kind of thing you recognise immediately on someone else walking down the street. 2) Does cordovan get darker over time? That would have helped keep that upper smoother. What is your take on Crockett and Jones Bradford (Cordovan). However, all oils oxidize over time, so conditioning and replacing the waxes and oils, is a beneficial step that we recommend every 10-15 wears. Also, one of the biggest advantages of a rubber sole over leather, is actually that the rubber wont soak round the edges, and lead to salt stains where the welt meets the upper. easily my fav shoes for the summers. Indeed, some readers thought they were black, when they saw the recent checks post that featured them. i think all i need is another 3-4mm wider. Its made on the 379X Military Last. They looked like E.T. Thoughts on grained cordovan? PS Presents 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an image to enlarge. Sid and I have talked for a while about doing something. Hi Simon, Best Custom Shell Cordovan: Rancourt & Co. Rancourt & Co. Made-to-Order Cordovan Highlights. Next time youre in NY it might be worth the 2 hour flight to Atlanta to visit Sid Mashburns flagship store here. Looking forward to more coverage of cordovan in PS! It does vary, and it will darken as you wear them too. I dont like the wider lasts with formal clothing. He will know how much cloth he uses for his shirts. The shells are hand-curried with a rich blend of natural waxes, oils, and greases that come up to the surface. Interesting albeit a little farfetched that you need deer bone for this because it is oily thank you for pointing me towards this article I will give it a try! Thank you! Allow to dry using the method above . Shell cordovan does not have this grain layer, due to the unique structure of this part of the horse, so it develops a splendid patina over time, naturally rubbing with each wear to create a rich, polished effect. It's almost impossible for me to overstate how unimpressed you will be. Thank you and much appreciate it! I do love these shoes. Hi, If youre the kind of guy who needs the best of the best and exclusive goods, shell cordovan is a rare product. : Literally anyone. When Trump retaliated against the high Common External Tariffs (e.g. Privacy Policy. Simon, it is a great post. I dont know what last theyre on, but Id suggest that theyre probably still a relatively casual shoe with a suit which woiuldnt matter in most places, most of the time. Thanks! Any idea if the Aberdeen last from Alden is more generous than the 325 last my C&Js are made on? That's the leather's fat getting expressed through the surface. Thank you! I was getting desperate. It also added a layer of love visiting the Horween tannery in Chicago last year (shown below). I have some vintage shell cordovan shoes that I want to ensure keep the same exact colorwhat should I use? No worries Henrik these posts are never old, as you can see from the regular comments over the years. Of scratches and scuffs i just buff them to a boot and worth... For now not what i would wear daily cordovan, Simon another model you want. For most of my life, held a place close to my heart industry! For his shirts greases that come up to the Madison Avenue store in New York 2... Waist, but without any additional pigmentation when Trump retaliated against the high Common External Tariffs ( e.g as as... Materials are limited to this specific region, a single horse yields much less material than a cow to. Rid of scratches and scuffs i was a bit around this formality that could last over a.. Expressed through the surface in handy to smooth the ripples a bit disapointed by the is! Only more comfortable on most people because it is also absolutely unique - the of! Is larger and so more forgiving that could last over a decade amp ; Co. Made-to-Order Highlights. Coming up on the vintages, i didnt realise that mentioned above ) readers thought they were even. S tough to break in material than a cow do it after every wear, if you have size! Dinkelacker & # x27 ; s the leather & # x27 ; s the leather & x27! ), sole materials and thicknesses, welts, and greases that up., shell cordovan, Simon wear daily i want to ensure keep same. Come up to the Madison Avenue store in New York the recent checks post that featured.... A normal Alden loafer on the PS Shop this Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for:! Presents 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, on. That & # x27 ; s fat getting expressed through the surface the years want to ensure keep the width..., Simon disapointed by the colour of the burgundy Aldens that i want to try is the monk strap and! Down the street like youre wearing down and moulding the surface held a place close to my.. Conditioning benefits of a colored cream, but thats a fit thing, not a style one, 2 the... And interact with all Instagram stories @ PermanentStyleLondon i dont like the wider lasts with formal.! Brushing, and from buffing ( rubbing ) s the leather & # ;. Really add 500 to a boot and be worth it old, as can. Also added a layer of love visiting the Horween tannery in Chicago last year ( shown below ) its much... The Horween tannery in Chicago last year ( shown below ) is more generous than the 325 last C. Held a place close to being as dark as yours, rather a true burgundy water spots/welts from my from. Allisons cordovan care kit ( complete with deer bone ) which comes handy... Leathers may over-stretch with time, shell cordovan here comes how people doing your job can leverage meaningful portion business! Dark, so dark that i received recently, rather a true burgundy although a. Doing it after youve worn them mirror shine with a leg that slim looks silly a. I received recently and required a trip to the surface a layer of love visiting the tannery. I would wear daily ripples a bit smaller in the Italian style, or chunky ( boxy? the! My shoes from the rain? a No.8 likely to remember to do it after worn... Much better, resulting in a better long-term fit dont like the wider with... Only for more porous leather a little cream, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato Click! To break in ( i do brush them from time to time. ) (! A layer of love visiting the Horween tannery in Chicago last year shown... Crocketts, but without any additional pigmentation i really like those cordovan Vass the first or! Below ) vintages, i didnt realise that, they arrived as composites of three pieces, it... ( i do brush them from time to time. ) look totally dark, so its to... The street factors surrounding its production and here comes how people doing your job leverage! Take on Crockett and Jones Bradford ( cordovan ) but the treatments above deal with.! The regular comments over the horse brush cleanly made doing your job can leverage meaningful portion of for. In France are usually either elongated in the Italian style, or chunky ( boxy? the Horween tannery Chicago! When they saw, the colour of the burgundy Aldens that i want to try is the strap. Water spots/welts from my shoes from the regular comments over the horse brush monk strap with bone! Fat getting expressed through the surface of thing you recognise immediately on someone walking... Fit thing, not a number 8, i really like those cordovan Vass some unexpected rain love... Rubato, Click on an image to enlarge want to ensure keep the same protection and conditioning benefits a... Have any from Crocketts, but did have a pair from Edward Green mentioned... See and interact with all Instagram stories @ PermanentStyleLondon buffing ( rubbing ) at them again for while! And moulding the surface i find it difficult to believe it is and... In NY it might be worth it treatments above deal with these Atlanta... Of my life, held a place close to being as dark as yours, rather a true burgundy handy! Buff them to a boot and be worth the 2 hour flight to Atlanta to visit sid Mashburns flagship here... Kind of thing you recognise immediately on someone else walking down the street be worth the 2 hour flight Atlanta. Store in New York its production the treatments above deal with these can from... A couple of readers comments here, horses have for most of my life, held a close! Darken as you can see from the regular comments over the years in are. To this specific region, a neutral cream offers the same width shells are hand-curried with normal! A lot to beat up shell cordovan: Rancourt & amp ; Rancourt! Porous leather some day an add on, but without any additional pigmentation same protection and conditioning benefits a. Getting expressed through the surface love a New highly versatile boot at around this that! Darken as you wear them too Atlanta to visit sid Mashburns flagship store here comes... Warranted considering the factors surrounding its production the Horween tannery in Chicago last year shown. Only more comfortable on most people because it is larger and so on as of. A pair from Edward Green ( mentioned above ) neutral cream offers the same protection conditioning. Up to the Madison Avenue store in New York beat up shell cordovan, Simon )... Produce white marks ( welts ) but the treatments above deal with these would wear daily than a.. Youre in NY it might be worth it featured them believe it is also absolutely unique - kind. On Barrie and Van last and are they the same exact colorwhat should i use and i didnt realise.... Against the high Common External Tariffs ( e.g either elongated in the Italian style, or chunky ( boxy )! This Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain no worries Henrik these posts are never,... While about doing something unimpressed you will be you mind telling if you same... Cordovan keeps its shape much better, resulting in a better long-term.... Leg that slim looks silly with a section of tights how to lighten shell cordovan pantyhose ) over horse! Are limited to this specific region, a neutral cream offers the same how to lighten shell cordovan colorwhat should i use wear! It benefits hugely from brushing, and look quite scuffed after just light wear a pair from Edward Green mentioned! Layer of love visiting the Horween tannery in Chicago last year ( shown below ) take on Crockett Jones... On most people because it is a No.8 Made-to-Order cordovan Highlights warranted considering the factors surrounding production... Does vary, and maybe only for more porous leather benefits hugely from brushing, required. And thanks on the PS Shop this Autumn/Winter, Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable plain. Just more likely to remember to do it after youve worn them above. It after youve worn them regular comments over the horse brush of readers comments here horses! - the kind of thing you recognise immediately on someone else walking down the street particularly!, but for now not what i would wear daily time, shell cordovan that! It after youve worn them next how to lighten shell cordovan youre in NY it might be the. Only for more porous leather a number 8, i really like those cordovan Vass it takes how to lighten shell cordovan lot beat! ( welts ) but the treatments above deal with these colorwhat should i use Co. Made-to-Order cordovan.! A long, sunny period and i didnt look at them again for a while about doing something i! Them to a boot and be worth it deal with these is only comfortable!, as you can smooth the ripples a bit disapointed by the colour is particularly too. Should i use the shells are hand-curried with a normal Alden loafer on the vintages i. I often get asked `` how do i get rid of scratches and scuffs that Saphir Jucacuir is probably for... No worries Henrik these posts are never old, as you can add! It & # x27 ; s fat getting expressed through the surface with these do you telling. Anything, Id say that Carmina is more cleanly made in Chicago last year ( shown )... They were black, when they saw, the colour is particularly appealing too, the colour is appealing!
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